Starting from now, I’m going to put the abstract of the fashion shows is the London, Milan and Paris fashion week. And, of course, my choices at Pitti Uomo. So, let’s start with London, with the London Collections: Man Fall 2015, my first stop.
The trends were so evident on this season, including the 1970s, the 1950s silhouette, the furry coat, the one with teddy bear appearance, natural and fakes skins and wide and relaxed proportions. Already the color chart is composed of earth tones, blues and grays. The jeans also this up, but not the way I imagined it would be.
I hope you enjoy the summaries of the main parades that I have closely followed and can, in some way, really apply to you.
The London fashion season opened with the Topman’s fashion show that we broadcasted live and exclusively. Under the theme “Bombay City Rollers,” Gordon team Richardson transferred us to the 1970s, the big trend this season. On the screen, there were psychedelic images on and a hippie man on the runway but sophisticated.
If the mood was the time of the transgression, take a lot of bell mouth trousers jeans with high waist, furry coats and jackets, overcoats and lots turtleneck. The tie-die was chic, just like the clothes with fringes, one of my new obsessions. Jumpsuits and patterns had their time in the Boggie Oggie style.
In Topman, this type of collection works as a think tank for a team that devotes most of the time to achieve the voracious appetites of commercial and fast-fashion clientele.
“New Model Army” was the expression that dominated the designer’s fashion show Astrid Andersen. With massive models on the runway, hip-hop 1990s and militarism formed the influence to a collection with wide proportions in knitwear, trousers, overalls and parkas. In addition, bright leather, jogger trousers – one with elastic bar – vinyl graphics and completed the sportswear footprint of the Andersen tribe.
The collection of Christopher Shannon is a satire on the insatiable appetite for consumption. With undercover humor, the fashion show began with models with the head covered by garbage bags and a seemingly random selection of fixtures in their creations. Pop culture references, like Coca-Cola, and slogans like “Broken” and “Thanks 4 Nothing” also took part in the runway.
Despite the slogans, however, the main dialect of Shannon’s sportswear, which in this fashion show appeared right oversized, mixed with corset, glows, and gel.
John Ray built a collection based around powerful personalities, finding his starting point in the 1950s and 1960s and in the like Francis Bacon, Lucian Freud and David Hockney, and also in the aristocrat area of financial and political elite of the SoHo area in LONDON.
The biggest part of the show was built around casual looks, quite different when we think about Dunhill. The pants were baggy, while the meshes … fluffy. The Silhouette was higher and with generous cuts, perfectly overlapped coats and blazers. Highlights to one of the collars of purposely misfit shirt that gave an extra touch of style to the looks.
The fashion show could have been halfway cliché, but the designer used the proportions and the colors in a provocative way, giving life and contemporary to the collection.
According to Patrick Grant, designer from the E. Tautz, “this is the most personal collection I’ve ever done. All the clothes I really like to use.”
The designer looked for inspiration in Scottish texts of Douglas Dunn, who examined the minutiae of life in northern Britain. The clothes of the working class and served to uniform background for a collection with generous proportions in jackets and trousers in shades of gray, pleated cuffs and hems huge! In addition, the clogs were signed by Christian Louboutin, with unearthed model of a charity shop.
The creative director of Gieves & Hawkes, Jason Basmajian, knows its responsibility as caring for a brand whose address is No. 1 Savile Row and has three royal coats of arms on the door.
Rather than a collection old-school, Basmajian had a good contemporary creation if we think of all tradition of the brand, especially the monochromatic looks in dark colors, like black, burgundy and gray. There was not a single white shirt, and shoes that were all too dark. Chic!
Mehmet Ali, creative director of the brand, made trekking to the top of Mount Snowdon, Wales, and, while he was there, had the brilliant idea to base your collection around British mountaineering.
From there, he took the whole palette of colors that has permeated his collection, earthy tones, gray, blue and dark green. The overlapping was used intelligently, mixing the knitting, tailoring and sportswear.
JW Anderson created one of the most intriguing collections of this season. He’s smart enough to know that the similarities between the male and female lockers will amplify the differences. For example, the elongated sleeve cuffs, the details of the buttons on jackets in a jewelry format and the wide trousers in bars perfectly show this duality.
It was an innovative collection for him, and perhaps to men’s fashion as well. All because Anderson is quite fearless in their collections. There was much of the 1970s, as in coats with leather belts, shearlings, the suede jacket with the sleeves mesh and velvet jacket. Highlights also include the furry coats, in addition to scarves with fringes.
As already usual, Jeremy Scott abused of his irreverence to create a new collection of Moschino. What the designer hits in the female fashion world, in the male leaves a little to be desired. Your winter is “overexaggerate”, with huge snow clothing such as knitwear, shearlings and fakes skins, mixed with casual brand, such as jeans, with palette of psychedelic colors.
If the winter Scott is irreverent, why not mix them also to Hawaiian floral and jumpsuits? In the head designer everything is possible, even snow during the fashion show. According to the designer, the models are in the middle of a snowy forest, but the way to a rave.
Richard James opened his show with a knitted poncho (LOVE), and a brown hat with a ribbon bearing the palette of colors of the Andes. The first look already us gave the hint of what was to come, clothes with explosion of colors, as well as details of sleeves and pockets in unfinished state, giving bossa to the collection.
But it was when the image of a British gentleman clashed with energy and Andean culture that the collection worked even better. From there, many coats, jackets with double-breasted, especially in earthy tones, loafers, high boots and blue tones made of one of my favorite runway.